🏔️ Comillas
Tucked along the wild Cantabrian coast, Comillas is a hidden gem where colorful Modernist architecture meets dramatic Atlantic views. This elegant town is famous for being one of the few places outside Catalonia where you can experience the genius of Antoni Gaudí firsthand.
🏛️ Architectural Treasure: Home to Gaudí’s whimsical El Capricho, one of his earliest masterpieces.
🏰 Royal Elegance: Stunning Gothic Revival palaces and the iconic red Pontifical University.
🌊 Coastal Beauty: Golden beaches, cliffs, and the wild beauty of Oyambre Natural Park.
🎨 Artistic Soul: A living open-air museum of 19th-century Modernism.
Whether you come for Gaudí’s vibrant designs, royal history, or peaceful beach walks, Comillas offers a refined and refreshing side of Northern Spain. For a complete understanding of how this town fits into your journey, check our Northern Spain travel guide.
Pro Tip: Most visitors focus only on the major palaces, but the real charm lies in wandering the quiet residential streets where Modernist details appear on everyday houses and balconies.
⚡ Comillas Snapshot: Essential Facts & Quick Travel Guide
Planning your visit requires knowing these key details to maximize your time in this Modernist sanctuary.
Regional Location: Comillas sits in Cantabria, a lush part of España Verde (Green Spain).
Best Time to Visit: Late spring and early autumn offer mild weather and fewer crowds.
Top Landmarks: Do not miss El Capricho, Sobrellano Palace, and the Pontifical University.
Language: Spanish is the main language, but locals appreciate a friendly “Hola.”
Budget Planning: Expect moderate prices for food and entry tickets to major monuments.
Travel Strategy: Check our Northern Spain travel cost guide to manage your daily expenses effectively.
⚖️ Coastal Face-Off: Comillas vs. Santillana del Mar
While both villages are Cantabrian jewels, they offer completely different vibes for travelers. Choosing between them depends on whether you crave colorful art or stone-carved history.
| Feature | Comillas (The Modernist Hub) | Santillana del Mar (The Medieval Soul) |
| Main Vibe | Vibrant, Artistic, and Royal. | Quiet, Historical, and Rustic. |
| Architecture | Colorful Gaudí tiles and brick palaces. | Cobblestone streets and Romanesque stone. |
| Location | Directly on the coast with a beach. | Inland, surrounded by green meadows. |
| Best For | Fans of Art Nouveau and photography. | History buffs and museum lovers. |
| Hidden Link | Modernist masterpieces. | Altamira Caves guide nearby. |
🧭 Which One Should You Choose?
Visit Comillas if: You love daring colors, royal palaces, and ending your day with a swim in the ocean.
Visit Santillana del Mar if: You want to step back into the 12th century and explore ancient cave art.
The Pro Move: Since they are only 20 minutes apart, you can easily visit both in a single day trip.
📐 Gaudi’s Masterpiece: Exploring "El Capricho" in Comillas
Before Antoni Gaudí built the Sagrada Familia, he experimented with his wild ideas in Northern Spain. Built between 1883 and 1885, El Capricho is one of the few works he designed outside Catalonia. Its name literally means “The Whim,” and every corner reflects this playful spirit.
Floral Facade: Thousands of ceramic sunflowers cover the exterior walls in vibrant yellow and green.
Oriental Style: The iconic Persian-inspired tower rises high, topped with a distinctive green-tiled dome.
Musical Architecture: Gaudí designed the rooms to act like a musical instrument, with windows that sing when opened.
Sun-Kissed Design: The layout follows the sun’s path, ensuring each room receives the perfect natural light all day.
Ticket Tip: Always book your tickets online through the official site to skip the long queues at the gate.
🎭 Hidden Symbolism inside El Capricho
Gaudí was obsessed with nature and music. Look closely at the iron balconies; they are shaped like musical notes. Even the door handles are designed to fit the human hand perfectly, showcasing his early focus on ergonomics.
🏰 The Sobrellano Palace: Gothic Revival and Royal History
Standing next to Gaudí’s masterpiece, the Sobrellano Palace looks like something out of a dark fairytale. Built for the First Marquis of Comillas, this massive stone structure defines the town’s skyline. It was the first building in Spain to use electric light during a royal visit.
Majestic Façade: The exterior features intricate stone carvings that showcase the peak of Gothic Revival architecture.
Royal Connection: King Alfonso XII once stayed here, making Comillas a temporary capital for the Spanish court.
The Pantheon-Chapel: This private family chapel sits right next to the palace and resembles a miniature cathedral.
Artistic Interiors: Inside, you will find furniture designed by Gaudí himself, blending palace luxury with modern genius.
Planning Tip: To see more grand royal residences, check our Magdalena Palace Santander guide for another northern coastal gem.
🕵️ The Legend of the Marquis
The Marquis was a powerful man who transformed this humble village into an aristocratic playground. His influence brought the best architects of the era to this coast. Today, the palace gardens are free to enter and offer the best sunset views in town.
Spanaly Insight: Don’t just look at the palace from the road. Walk up the hill behind it to get a perfect view of the Pontifical University across the valley.
🎓 Pontifical University: The Iconic Red Landmark on the Hill
The Pontifical University is the most imposing building in Comillas. Sitting high on a hill, its red brick walls create a stunning contrast against the green Cantabrian landscape. It represents the peak of Neogothic-Mudéjar style in Northern Spain.
Majestic Entrance: The massive bronze doors feature intricate religious and historical reliefs.
Architectural Hybrid: It blends traditional Spanish Mudéjar brickwork with modern artistic details.
Panoramic Views: The terrace offers the absolute best views of the town and the Atlantic Ocean.
Academic History: Once a prestigious seminary, it now serves as a center for Spanish language and culture.
Travel Connection: If you enjoy grand historical monuments, explore our Santiago de Compostela guide for more northern history.
🏛️ The “Red Giant” of Comillas
Walking up the hill to the university is a workout, but the reward is worth every step. The interior courtyard and the chapel are masterclasses in 19th-century design. Even if you don’t take the full tour, the gardens are a peaceful escape from the summer crowds.
⛪ Comillas Cemetery: Architecture and the Guardian Angel Statue
The Comillas Cemetery is often called the most beautiful in Spain. Built within the ruins of a 15th-century Gothic church, it blends ancient stone with Modernist elegance. It is a peaceful place where art and nature coexist perfectly.
The Guardian Angel: The iconic “Angel Exterminador” statue watches over the cemetery from a high stone wall.
Gothic Ruins: Dramatic ruined arches of the old church provide a unique backdrop for the sculptures.
Modernist Pantheons: Famous architects like Lluís Domènech i Montaner designed several of the private family tombs.
Atlantic Views: The cemetery sits on a cliff, offering stunning views of the crashing waves below.
Photography Spot: This is widely considered one of the best photography spots in Spain for its moody atmosphere.
🕊️ Art Beyond Life
The cemetery is not a gloomy place but a celebration of local craftsmanship. The integration of the old church walls with the 19th-century statues creates a hauntingly beautiful scene. It is a must-visit for anyone interested in the “Modernismo” movement.
Spanaly Insight: Look for the detailed carvings on the main gate. The ironwork and stone motifs are so intricate they rival the decorations found in the town’s major palaces.
🏖️ Sun and Sand: Best Beaches in Comillas and Nearby Coves
Comillas is not just about stone and brick; its coastline is a paradise for ocean lovers. The town’s main beach is one of the most family-friendly spots in Cantabria, offering golden sand and calm waters.
Playa de Comillas: This wide beach sits right in the town center with excellent facilities and a safe promenade.
Golden Sands: The shore is perfect for long walks or sunbathing under the mild northern sun.
Water Sports: You can often find locals surfing or paddleboarding near the rocky areas of the bay.
Coastal Trails: Scenic paths lead from the beach to hidden viewpoints over the Atlantic cliffs.
Beach Exploration: If you love discovering secret spots, check our Ultimate Spain Beach Guide for more coastal inspiration.
🌊 Beyond the Main Shore
If you prefer a quieter experience, head to the nearby Playa de Oyambre. This massive beach is part of a natural park and is just a few minutes away by car. It offers a wilder landscape with sand dunes and spectacular views of the snow-capped Picos de Europa in the distance.
Spanaly Insight: Parking near the main beach can be difficult during August. Arrive before 10:00 AM to secure a spot and enjoy the most peaceful hours of the morning.
🚶 Modernist Route: Walking Through the Town's Artistic Alleys
Exploring Comillas on foot is like walking through an open-air museum. While the major palaces grab the headlines, the town’s true soul lies in its artistic alleys. Every corner reveals decorative ironwork, ceramic tiles, and hidden courtyards from the 19th-century “Modernismo” era.
Puebla Vieja: Wander through the medieval heart of the town to find traditional stone houses with wooden balconies.
Artistic Details: Keep an eye out for unique door handles and window frames designed by famous architects.
Plaza del Corro: Relax in this charming square surrounded by historic buildings and local artisan shops.
The Old Town Hall: Admire the elegant facade of the Ayuntamiento, a perfect example of local civic architecture.
Regional Flavors: During your walk, stop at a local bakery to try traditional Spanish food like Sobao Pasiego.
🗺️ A Self-Guided Art Walk
Start your route at the tourist office and follow the bronze shells on the ground. These markers guide you through the most important Modernist homes and shops. The walk is easy, but the steep cobblestone sections require comfortable walking shoes to enjoy the experience fully.
Spanaly Insight: Don’t just look up at the balconies. Look down at the street lamps and benches; many were custom-designed during the town’s golden age to match the Modernist aesthetic of the surrounding palaces.
🥘 Cantabrian Cuisine: Best Places to Eat in Comillas
Eating in Comillas is a highlight of any trip to Northern Spain. The local food focuses on fresh ingredients from the Atlantic Ocean and the nearby green pastures. Expect hearty portions and honest, traditional flavors that represent the soul of Cantabria.
Fresh Seafood: Try the local turbot, sea bass, or the famous Cantabrian anchovies caught in the nearby Bay of Biscay.
Cocido Montañés: A rich, local bean stew with chorizo and collard greens—perfect for a chilly northern day.
Rabas: These are the local version of fried squid, usually served as a crispy appetizer with a squeeze of lemon.
Artisan Sweets: Do not leave without trying Sobaos Pasiegos or Corbatas, which are delicious buttery pastries.
Drinking Like a Local: Pair your meal with a glass of crisp Spanish white wine or local apple cider.
🍴 Where to Find Authentic Flavors
Head away from the main tourist squares and look for small taverns in the “Puebla Vieja” (Old Town). These family-run spots often have a “Menú del Día” which offers a full 3-course meal at a very fair price. If you want the best views, the restaurants overlooking the fishing port offer the freshest catch of the day.
📍 Getting There: How to Reach Comillas from Santander & Bilbao
Comillas is well-connected to the major hubs of Northern Spain, making it an easy addition to any Cantabrian itinerary. Whether you drive along the scenic coast or use public transport, the journey is part of the experience.
From Santander (Fastest): Drive for about 40 minutes via the A-67 and CA-131 highways for the quickest route.
From Bilbao (Scenic): The drive takes around 1 hour and 15 minutes, offering stunning views of the green coastline.
Bus Services: ALSA buses run regularly from Santander’s main station, reaching Comillas in approximately 1 hour.
Airport Connections: If you are flying in, check our Bilbao Airport guide for car rental and transfer options.
Public Transport Tips: Use our transport in Northern Spain guide to navigate regional train and bus networks easily.
🚗 The Best Way to Arrive
Renting a car is highly recommended if you want to explore nearby spots like San Vicente de la Barquera. The coastal roads are well-maintained and offer numerous “miradores” (viewpoints) where you can stop for photos. If you rely on the bus, be sure to check the return schedules, as services are less frequent on Sundays and public holidays.
Spanaly Insight: Parking in the town center is very restricted for non-residents. Look for the large public parking areas near the entrance of the town or by the beach to avoid heavy fines.
🏨 Where to Stay: Top Boutique Hotels and Apartments
Finding the perfect base in Comillas depends on whether you want to wake up to palace views or the sound of the Atlantic waves. The town offers a range of charming boutique stays and modern apartments that reflect its artistic heritage.
Boutique Hotels: Stay in restored 19th-century mansions that feature original stone walls and Modernist décor.
Seafront Apartments: Choose a modern flat near the beach for easy access to morning swims and sunset walks.
Palace Views: Several hotels overlook the Sobrellano Palace and El Capricho, offering a magical atmosphere at night.
Rural Escapes: Look for traditional “Posadas” on the outskirts for a quiet experience surrounded by green meadows.
Booking Strategy: Check our accommodation in Spain guide for tips on finding the best local deals and unique stays.
🛌 Top Recommended Areas
The Historic Center: Best for those who want to be steps away from Gaudí’s masterpieces and local tapas bars.
The Beachfront: Ideal for families and travelers looking for a relaxed, coastal holiday vibe.
The High District: Offers the quietest stays with panoramic views of the Pontifical University and the ocean.
🗺️ Nearby Wonders: Exploring the Oyambre Natural Park
Comillas sits at the heart of the Oyambre Natural Park, one of Cantabria’s most diverse ecological gems. This protected area surrounds the town with lush marshes, emerald meadows, and dramatic coastal cliffs. It is the perfect escape for those who want to blend high-art with raw Atlantic nature.
Scenic Dunes: Walk through the rolling sand dunes that separate the wild ocean from quiet coastal lagoons.
Birdwatching: The marshes are home to various migratory birds, making it a peaceful spot for nature photography.
Hiking Trails: Discover well-marked paths that connect Comillas to nearby cliffs with breathtaking views of the sea.
Picos View: On clear days, you can see the snow-capped Picos de Europa mountains rising behind the green hills.
Nature Adventure: Explore our Santander to Picos de Europa itinerary to extend your journey into the mountains.
🚲 The Best Way to Explore Oyambre
While you can drive through the park, renting an e-bike in Comillas is the superior choice. This allows you to navigate the narrow coastal lanes and stop at hidden viewpoints that cars cannot reach. The fresh salty air and the silence of the meadows offer a perfect contrast to the busy modernist center.
Spanaly Insight: Head to the Oyambre Beach at low tide. You can walk for miles on the firm sand, reaching sections of the coast that feel completely untouched by tourism.
🗓️ Suggested Itinerary: A Perfect Day Trip to Comillas
This strategic route helps you experience the Modernist highlights and coastal beauty without feeling rushed. It works perfectly as a standalone visit or as a key stop during a wider Northern Spain road trip across the Cantabrian coast.
| Time | Activity | Estimated Cost (Per Person) |
| 09:30 AM | Arrival & Coffee: Start at Plaza del Corro with a local pastry. | €5 – €8 |
| 10:30 AM | Gaudi’s Genius: Guided tour of the colorful El Capricho. | €7 (General Entry) |
| 11:45 AM | Gothic Grandeur: Explore the Sobrellano Palace and Chapel. | €5 (Palace Tour) |
| 01:30 PM | Lunch: Enjoy a traditional Cantabrian seafood feast. | €15 – €25 |
| 03:30 PM | The Red Giant: Hike to the Pontifical University for views. | Free (Gardens) / €6 (Tour) |
| 05:00 PM | The Angel’s View: Visit the cliffside Comillas Cemetery. | Free |
| 06:30 PM | Golden Hour: Relax at the beach or walk the coastal paths. | Free |
| 08:30 PM | Tapas & Farewell: Grab a quick bite before moving on. | €10 – €15 |
💰 Total Daily Budget Estimate
Low Cost: Around €40 (Using public buses and light snacks).
Moderate: Around €75 (Includes all tours, a full lunch, and parking).
Pro Strategy: Combine this visit with other nearby gems by exploring our Spain travel itineraries for a seamless regional experience.
Spanaly Insight: If you are visiting during the high season, try to reverse this itinerary. Start at the Cemetery and University in the morning to enjoy the quietest hours, then visit the palaces during the early afternoon.
💡 Spanaly Pro Tips: Insider Secrets for Art Lovers
To truly experience Comillas like an expert, you need to look beyond the famous facades. These “underground” tips will help you avoid the crowds and capture the town’s most authentic moments.
The “Secret” Mirror Photo: In El Capricho, don’t just photograph the sunflowers. Look for the large mirrors inside; Gaudí angled them specifically so you can see the exterior garden’s reflections while standing in the middle of the room.
The Cemetery Sunset Trick: Most tourists visit the cemetery at midday. However, the “Angel Exterminador” is positioned to catch the orange glow of the sunset directly on its wings, creating a surreal, glowing effect that happens for only 10 minutes.
Free Palace Views: Instead of paying for every palace interior, walk to the Mirador de Santa Lucía. This small, often overlooked chapel offers a perfectly aligned panoramic view of both the Sobrellano Palace and the University without spending a Euro.
Avoid the “Royal” Crowd: Comillas gets packed on weekends with locals. Visit on a Tuesday or Wednesday morning to have the modernist alleys to yourself; this is when the light is best for photography without people in your frame.
Hidden Interior Art: If you visit the Pontifical University, look for the bronze doorknockers. Each one is a unique work of art; many visitors walk right past them without realizing they were crafted by the era’s top sculptors.
Tactile Modernism: Gaudí was a pioneer of ergonomics. In El Capricho, pay attention to the window pulleys and door handles; they are designed to fit the human grip perfectly. Try them yourself to feel the architect’s genius.
🤫 The Ultimate Insider Secret
If you have a car, drive 5 minutes to the Acantilados de el Bolao. It features a ruined watermill on the edge of a massive cliff. While everyone stays in the town center, this spot offers a raw, wild Cantabrian atmosphere that feels like a scene from a movie, and it’s almost always empty.
🛡️ Visitor FAQs – Comillas Architecture & Logistics Guide
🚶 Can I walk between the major Modernist monuments?
Yes, Comillas is very walkable. Most Modernist gems like El Capricho and Sobrellano Palace are clustered together. However, the walk to the Pontifical University involves a steep incline. We recommend wearing comfortable sneakers with good grip, as the historic cobblestones can be slippery when misty.
🎫 Is there a combined "Gaudí & Palace" ticket available?
Currently, there is no single "all-access" pass for every monument. You must book separate tickets for El Capricho and Sobrellano Palace. To save time, use the official online portals to secure your entry time, as on-site tickets for Gaudí's masterpiece often sell out by noon during peak season.
👗 Is there a dress code for visiting the Pantheon or Cemetery?
There is no strict formal dress code, but respectful attire is encouraged when entering the Pantheon-Chapel. Avoid swimwear or very revealing clothing in these religious and historical sites. The cemetery is an active site of reflection, so keeping noise levels low and being mindful of local visitors is the standard etiquette.
🕒 Are museums and shops open during the Siesta?
Comillas strictly follows the Northern Spanish daily rhythm. Most local shops and some smaller monuments close between 2:00 PM and 4:00 PM. The major attractions like El Capricho usually stay open, but we recommend checking the latest schedules on the day of your visit to avoid waiting outside during the break.
♿ Is Comillas accessible for visitors with limited mobility?
The town presents some challenges due to its hilly terrain and old stone streets. However, El Capricho has ramps for wheelchair access to the ground floor. The Sobrellano Palace gardens are mostly accessible, but the upper floors of the Pontifical University may be difficult. We suggest a dedicated taxi service to reach the higher monuments comfortably.
Comillas Guide by Spanaly.com
Comillas is more than just beautiful buildings, it is a place where bold imagination meets the raw power of the Atlantic. Here, Gaudí’s colorful dreams stand beside ancient stone palaces and dramatic cliffs, creating an unforgettable atmosphere that feels both artistic and deeply authentic.
🎨 Unmatched Art: Discover one of the few places outside Catalonia where you can experience Gaudí’s early genius up close.
🏰 Royal Atmosphere: Feel the grandeur of a town that once hosted kings and became a temporary royal capital.
🌊 Coastal Peace: Watch the Atlantic waves crash against historic ruins as the sun sets over the bay.
🍲 Authentic Flavors: Taste real Cantabrian cuisine in hidden taverns tucked away in ancient alleys.
Spanaly Final Tip: Don’t rush through the major monuments. Sit for a while in Plaza del Corro, listen to the church bells, breathe in the salty sea air, and let the unique spirit of Comillas sink in. This is where art, history, and nature blend perfectly.
If you love charming coastal towns with rich history, make sure to continue your journey with our Castro Urdiales Guide.
Safe travels, and enjoy every colorful corner of this hidden gem.